Today we can still find some French château owners who dismiss biodynamics as the 'science of shamans,' but when we examine the list of vineyards where this method of cultivation has been adapted, they have no choice but to be quiet and take it a little seriously. Great winemakers such as Lafon, Leflaive and Leroy in Burgundy, Chapoutier in the Rhône, Ostertag in Alsace or Huet in the Loire Valley attest to this with the great vintages they present year after year. In the case of the latter, Domaine Huet, it is one of the few world-class producers in the Loire Valley that is known worldwide and, if it is recognised for anything, it is for being one of the forerunners of the biodynamic culture in the French vineyard. With a total of 35 hectares of Demeter-certified vineyards, including three of the plots considered Grand Cru of the Vouvray AOC, it is known above all for its absolute control of the star variety chenin blanc.
Its white wine Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Sec is a very good example. It is sourced from ‘Le Haut Lieu,’ a vineyard covering some 8 hectares on the outskirts of Tours, whose clay soils provide a fresh and fruity chenin blanc. The vines are 25 years old and are managed according to biodynamic criteria and harvested by hand. Once in the cellar, the bunches are gently pressed and, after a 24-hour debourbage, the must obtained is separated into two equal parts for fermentation with native yeasts; one part is taken to tanks and the other to used barrels. Finally, the wine is aged in French oak barrels.
Pure, energetic and highly refined, Domaine Huet Vouvray Le Haut Lieu Sec is a fabulous Vouvray that any chenin lover should try. However, thanks to its mineral soils and the biodynamic care given to the fruit, it is certain that this wine still has a lot to give. Once you have it in your hands, age it, if you can…